Vallein Tercinier 46°

Ryan's Notes




Vallein Tercinier is a producer that we continue to circle back around to, and I think with good reason. A small house that offers pure unadulterated cognac.  They offer quite a bit in the way of different vintages from various regions, as well as several great blends. There's a lot to dive into with this one house, and quality remains high.  They're not all stunners, but there are quite a few that have become benchmark cognacs for me.  Earlier in the year they released a new cognac blend, simply called 46°. It follows the ethos of the house being non-chillfiltered and unadulterated.  This release is a blend of two batches of cognac; one 15 year from the Fins Bois region and one 25 year from the Bons Bois region.  This is, of course, bottled at a respectable 46%.

Nose:  Sweet and aromatic.  A bowl of fresh fruit.  Honey and stone fruits. Tobacco. Floral, as well, although don't ask me to name the types.   It's a very inviting nose. Emphasis on freshness.

Taste:  Similar to the nose. Starts with lightly spiced fruits and honey.  Cinnamon dusted peaches and nectarines. Medium thick and slightly sticky mouthfeel.

Finish: The rich fruits move into a fresh, but slightly earthy finish.  Light menthol, lime, grapefruit.  There's also dried leather, pine. It's a touch creamy at the end. Lingers for quite a while with the brighter citrus.

Thoughts: Sitting down with a glass of this reminds me that I have had very little from this house that is younger than 40 years of age, and I've tasted quite a bit at this point.  The 46° doesn't taste young, though. It just doesn't taste old, if that makes sense.  There are some dimensions that come only with the extra rest in oak that aren't present here, but what that leaves us with is a very drinkable, fresh and expressive cognac with a focus on fruits.  Nothing wrong with that! It is full of flavor, with good presence in mouthfeel, and a finish that lasts.  I think this is the best value I’ve found in cognac.  Available overseas for around $70.

Very Solid B+

Jacques Denis Millesime 1994 47%

It amazes me how many small cognac houses are sprinkled throughout the French countryside. I think its one of the reasons why non-French consumers get lost – with so many options, where is a beginner to start? Sure, there are “best-of” and “top ten” and “must buy” lists, but those are about as reliable as the cable guy showing up on time. More often than not, I rely on my nerd friends as a tasting and recommendation crutch. Unfortunately, cognac, and especially small house cognac, is a relative wasteland when it comes to booze-nerd research (except in Scandinavia – those peeps know what’s up when it comes to cognac). So, we’re here to help nerds!

Here’s another review of a small house cognac with a very small footprint.

Jacques Denis is located in Grande Champagne. They produce a couple of bottlings, mostly geared towards generic, brand-centric marketing, with this 1994 single vintage sitting as an outlier among the rest of the pack. If you’ve read some of my other posts (or know your business when it comes to cognac), you’ll know that there are some extra hoops that come along with vintage dating a cognac (thanks to the BNIC). The fact that JD went the extra length to vintage date this tells me that 1994 must have been an exceptional harvest for them – I mean, it is the same year we got Coolio’s “Fantastic Voyage,” so it makes sense.

Nose: a nice bouquet of sweets and fruits pop, with caramel, pears, apples, a little tangerine, and Smarties (confectionery sugar candy)

Palate: the sweets and fruits fully translate to the palate along with some other notes, including green grape skins, light coffee (not dark and bitter but bright and fruity beans), sweet cream (think half-n-half), and roasted pecan.

Finish: Nice medium length that washes over the tongue and lingers for a nice

Thoughts: this is tasty and I have no regrets picking it up. The bottle itself wasn’t too expensive, either (around $125 pre-ship), but as its always the case, it’s the shipping from Europe that is hits below the belt. I think that the 1994 is unique enough where some people would really be into it. I’m a fan – not obsessive, buying every obscure Japanese-only release type of fan…I’d say that that I’m glad I bought a ticket to the concert.

Grade: Solid B+

Website: http://cognacjacquesdenis.com/page/propriete

Calvados Morin Napoleon 25 ans, 43%

Ryan's Notes
 



Calvados Morin Napoleon 25 ans, 43%

This is a Calvados from Morin. Morin has been around for awhile, dating back to 1889 in the Risle Valley in Normandy, before their production was ultimately moved to Ivry-la-Bataille in the Eure valley where it continues today. Eaux-de-vie is aged in 300-400 liter Limousin oak casks. This particular Calvados has been aged for 25 years and was bottled at 43%.

Nose: it’s an immediately sweet nose of candied apples, candy corn, caramel. Remember circus peanuts? Light touches of tobacco leaves, sawdust, and gentle spices.

Taste:  It seems silly to say, but apple cider comes to mind.  Moving on from the obvious.  Poached spiced pears. Cherry. Chocolate caramel. Dark honey. Elderberry syrup. The right kind of medicinal here.  Y’know, the good quality cough syrup. We get a little bit of the oak coming through here now with some cooking spices - cinnamon, peppercorns. Some light polish notes.

Thoughts: It is perfect at 43% with a rich mouthfeel and long finish. The aroma had me wondering if this was going to be a bit heavy handed in the fruit sugars, but it showed some extra dimension on the palate. A very compelling spirit, overall.  Available overseas from the whisky exchange (if they still ship to your state) for around $115. Recommended.

It's a strong B+

1983 Du Chateau De Lacaze 46%

Ryan's Notes

1983 Du Chateau De Lacaze 46%

Tasting a 1983 vintage armagnac from Lacaze. There is not a ton of info available on this house. There seems to have been a small handful of vintages bottled for Master of Malt and Howells of Bristol. From what I can gather, this particular vintage was bottled in 1996 for Howells of Bristol in the UK. Who is Howells of Bristol, you ask? No clue.  Bottled at 46%.

Nose: It's fresh. No dense oak notes to sort through. This is very straightforward, but in a good way.

Fruits. Bright melon stands out. Floral and aromatic. Sandalwood.  Never overwhelming the sweetness, though.

Taste: Immediately sweet. Strawberry, golden raisins, melon. Honey. Very lively.

Finish: The finish transitions cleanly from the sweet fruits into some light oak notes. Menthol, damp oak, some sharp spice; gentian, cinnamon. Nice length.

Overall: This is a very nice youthful armagnac.  It has the freshness that I really enjoy and it is very clean. A nice array of fruits with a lasting finish that carries through with some lighter oak influence. It certainly has me chasing the next sip even if it isn't terribly complex. I’m curious to try an expression with a touch more age on it, but wouldn't mind having a bottle of this on the shelf at the right price.

B

Vallein-Tercinier "Lot 90" and "Lot 70" for Flask, T5C, and Ryan

Ryan's Notes



Two Vallein-Tercinier selections brought to the states

Just to echo Justin, this was the clear choice for us when we tasted through the samples.  After tasting it that first time over a year ago, my memory of it became more an impression than any true recollection of what it tasted like.  Thrilled to finally be able to open a bottle and dive in.  The Lot 90, was my second favorite of the samples, but very different than the others. At the time of tasting I was completely set on the Lot 70, but now having a bottle in front of me I'm so glad that this one was picked up by Flask Fine Wine.

Lot 70, Petite Champagne, 52% (Selection for Flask, T5C, and Ryan)

Nose: Caramel, dense stewed fruits - peaches, berries. Leather bound books, walnuts, tobacco leaves. Fragrant oak. Eucalyptus.

Taste:  Lots of juicy fruits right up front. Ripe and syrupy. Blueberries, raspberries. Cream. Tastes like sweet berry pie. Also stone fruits - peaches. A heavy wave of wood polish, dried leather, linseed oil. Pleasantly drying.  There are some hints of brighter fruits. Papaya. 

Finish: Intense on the walnut oil. Black tea tannins. Spiced fruits. 

Overall: Layers upon layers.  This is, to me, an example of excellent oak influence over 45+ years.  The heavier oak flavors fill out the richer fruits on the palate, but it's still showing a freshness that is amazing for its age.  There's also a dryness and pungency, but it's pleasing and not overpowering.  I think it’s an outstanding spirit.



Lot 90, Grande Champagne, 49.7% (Selection for Flask)

Nose: Fruit forward. Apples and pears. Honey glazed. Lightly spiced. Apple cider. There's some gentle smoke there, as well.

Taste:  More orchard fruits. Apples, pears. But also some tropical fruits. Guava, papaya. Sweet and jammy. Wildflower honey. Melted spiced chocolate. Slightly malty.

Finish: More spiced fruits, mild oak tannins. Candied ginger.

Overall: It’s youthful in the best way possible. Falls just a touch short in the slight finish, but we're nitpicking. This is a delicious cognac.  

Vallein Tercinier “Lot 70” Petite Champagne 52% for Flask, T5C, and Ryan

I’m going to preface this review with saying that I helped set up this pick and I’m inherently biased. Instead of giving it a grade, I'll just say that it’s a great cognac and I wouldn’t be upset if I bought one at retail (Flask has some available).

On to the review…

Vallein Tercinier is a grower / producer and their business goes all the back to the 1850s with George Vallein, who created and sold cognac blends. The family and company history is outlined on their website (link below) and worth a read. Today, Robert Tercinier handles the production side of cognac production and Catherine Roudier-Tercinier along with her husband, Stephane Roudier, handle the commercial side of the brand. Vallein Tercinier is located in Grande Champagne but produces cognac from other regions and I suspect they source some of the grapes from various vineyards (however they may own vineyards in different regions, too).

Unfortunately, the United States is limited when it comes to unadulterated, cask strength cognac. When I reached out to Stephane from Vallein Tercinier, I was ecstatic when he agreed to work with us. Stephane sent us several delicious samples and the Lot 70 was a clear standout (I will say the Lot 90 was pretty fantastic, too). While Vallein Tercinier uses the term “Lot,” it really refers to the vintage year (see my “Vintage” blog post), so the Lot 70 was distilled in 1970. Let that sink in…this is a 48 year cognac. Incredible. The Lot 70 is unchill-filtered, uncolored, and unadulterated. Pure, raw, 48 year old cognac...

Nose: brown sugar, apricots, and oak, oh my…some cigar box, too.

Palate: milk chocolate, tea and dried tobacco leaves wash over the palate, then I get apricots, blackberries, under-ripe raspberries, flower stems, walnut oil and some light trop fruit notes…some oak but far from over-oaked.

Finish: nice length with the fruit notes slowly tapering off last.

Thoughts
I love this – it’s a conversion cognac for spirits geeks who have always shunned or ignored brandy. I think if we saw more cognac like this in the States, its popularity would explode. The bottle has definitely evolved with a little airtime and I look forward to seeing where it takes me.           

https://www.cognac-tercinier.com/en/domaine-des-forges-en/500-years-of-history

1979 L'encantada Domaine Les Bidets 38 years old, 48.3%

Ryan's Notes




1979 L'encantada Domaine Les Bidets 38 years old, 48.3%

Another L'encantada, another domaine.  A 1979 vintage armagnac bottled at 48.3%.  I don't know much about Les Bidets, other than that I believe we are looking at a small grower of Baco vineyards in Arthez-d'Armagnac who has their armagnac produced by a traveling distiller.  So, 100% baco here. Unfiltered and cask-strength, of course.  There has been a number of vintage casks released over recent years by L'encantada, but this does seem to be one of the older ones.


Nose: The nose immediately reveals its age. Tobacco leaves, dirt, hint of burnt wood, under all the dark oaky flavors there are some syrupy sugars and thick stewed fruits - cherries, plums. 

Taste: The first thing that hits me is a deep richness. Dark honey with a medicinal kick.  Cherry cough syrup.  Both thick and heavy on the palate.

Finish: Warm spice, ginger stands out.  Gentian and some other pleasantly astringent herbal notes.  Dry oak, a touch of varnish, just bordering on woody. The finish is long with dark sugars and dry oak.

With water: The nose reveals much of the same, but on the palate it swims well! Right away there is more sweetness. The dark honey sugars aren't overtaken as quickly and the fruit has more of a presence.  Less medicinal, not that I mind it. The cherries are still there, but now there are plums, and hints of citrus. Caramel and chocolate. Nuts. This is, in fact, quite a different experience.

At cask strength the denser oak notes remind me of some of those old rye whiskies - think Hirsch 22, BMH 23.  Of course, it's still undeniably brandy.  I imagine some will absolutely love this one at strength.  With water, we see it open up and reveal a bit more sweetness.  My preference is towards the latter, but this is the beauty of getting a spirit bottled at natural strength. Choose your own adventure.  $215 at Astor Wines.

B+