Tuesday, June 5, 2018

St. Remy Authentic VSOP 40%


Ryan's Review

A couple things.  First, Justin and I consider this blog a journal of sorts. A written document on our path to discover what brandy is both in taste and in production. It shouldn’t be a secret that we don’t consider ourselves experts. If you see a piece of information that is incorrect please let us know. We also don’t expect our notes to be taken as gospel.  We occasionally will taste something expensive, and we may or may not love it.  Hopefully if you choose to purchase it based on our review it’s because you’ve found your palate seems to agree with ours more often than not.  In the end, we are just charting our own experiences in discovering what the world of brandy has to offer.  Second, it is probably a bit obvious by now that Justin and I have similar tastes and cherry pick the brandies that we have tasted and reviewed on this page.  We look for bottles, often from small production, family-run houses and producers who focus on letting the unadulterated spirit do the talking.   Most of what we have tasted so far we have enjoyed to varying degrees, even if it might not be a repeat purchase or a “wow” spirit. We assign grades because it’s part of the shtick, and I suppose it does help categorize in my own mental library what my overall impressions of the spirit are. With grades in mind, let’s remember even the bottles that we grade a B are still fine spirits. Maybe it doesn’t fall right in our wheelhouse, maybe not a “run out and tell the masses” bottle, but still, we can recognize there is quality.   So with all that said, here today is a bottle that was not cherry-picked. Instead, I found this bottle in a box in my basement collecting dust. I purchased it a couple years ago for a cooking recipe for no other reason than it was cheap. Cheap doesn’t always mean bad, though.

Some interesting details on the brand. St. Remy was formed in 1886 and is owned by the juggernaut company, Remy Cointreau.  It is not actually a cognac, as the grapes are not grown in the Cognac region. Instead, the grapes that are used are coming from some other areas very popular for their vineyards, such as Burgundy, Champagne, Bordeaux, and Rhone Valley.  So they refer to their end product as French Brandy, which is governed by the Federation of French Brandy. 

St. Remy Authentic VSOP
40%

Nose: A very light nose, with some hints of sweet fruits.

Taste: Quite sugary up front with honey, grapes, and strawberries. It is a bright profile, and just a tad spirity. 

Finish: Towards the finish is more light summer fruits and some spices. A hint of cocoa. It finishes with light menthol and oak.

Overall: This is a rather light brandy, and you get the sense that is exactly what they’re going for, both from the proof and also the overall blend. It is neither offensive nor complex, and the flavors come and go rather quickly. It is not an overly sweet presentation, however the sweetness it provides is simple and without much else to round it out and make it interesting. A good brandy perhaps to use in a cocktail or in cooking. 

C+

Monday, June 4, 2018

1986 L'Encantada Bas Armagnac 30 Year Old "Domaine Le Frêche" Cask #44


Ryan's Review

We’re tasting another bottling from L’Encantada today. This one is a 1986 vintage labeled as “Domaine Le Frêche”. Well, I know next to nothing about the origin of this armagnac, other than that it was produced in the domaine Le Frêche located in the Bas Armagnac region. It was brought in by K&L and this will actually be the first L’encantada bottling I’ve had the pleasure of tasting that is not a Lous Pibous. This one is 30 years old and bottled at a natural 47.9%.

1986 L'Encantada Bas Armagnac 30 Year Old "Domaine Le Frêche" Cask #44

Nose: On the nose it’s quite big. Caramel and dried fruits make up the sweetness. We’ve also got cinnamon oil, smoke and leather.  The oak is certainly present.

Taste: Upfront we have stewed fruits and berries. Some leather. Quickly moving into heavy oak, caramelized brown sugar.  The mouthfeel here is quite chewy. Finishes with spicy cinnamon and fragrant wood. I find the oak to be a bit dominating on the finish only in that it seems to be overshadowing the rest of the profile.

I decided to take it for a swim and see what happens. With water the fruit notes open up with big notes of mango, heavy tart rhubarb and overripe strawberries. These transition to brighter fruits, like pineapple and lime. Quite crisp.  The fruits are backed by some deeper caramel and dense oak notes.  Some milk chocolate. Cinnamon. More fruit, tangerine this time. Again, there’s that fragrant wood, which is very nice. Layers upon layers. Complex and delicious.

Overall: This armagnac settled at a natural 47.9% at time of bottling, and reminds me of the heaviness of a Lous Pibous, making me wonder if it was aged in new oak. I find that a little bit of water unwraps the whole package and reveals layers of flavors beyond the caramel and oak that dominate at cask strength.  That mango note is a highlight for me. This is an excellent armagnac and the quality is high. Can we expect more of the same from other “Le Frêche” bottlings?

A-

Friday, June 1, 2018

Chateau de Pellehaut 1983 30 Year Armagnac 47.8%


Here's a review of an older K&L Pellehaut pick I snagged years ago. It's long gone and probably difficult to track down, but I hope the review speaks to the overall quality of the Pellehaut releases, and especially the K&L Pellehaut picks. For as much fun as it is to joke about David Driscoll's silly wrestling analogies (like I should cast stones, amiright?), Driscoll and David OG at K&L tracked down some fantastic brandy before anyone else. I bought into the hype early, right when they first started selling store-exclusive Armagnac. I'm sure Charles Neal, the author and importer, had a heavy hand in what K&L brought Stateside, too.

Anyways, this is a 30 year, 1983 Chateau de Pellehaut, bottled in 2013 at 47.8%. It was ~$85 when it was first released...almost seems too soon to say "those were the days" when referring to 2013...

Nose: grape mocha latte (I wish that was an actual thing), lots of oak, more oak, and citrus...some rose petals and a tinge of sea spray, too

Taste: fat and juicy AND rich, I told my buddy this tasted like Glendronach and dusty bourbon had a love child...the oak isn't as prevalent as it is on the nose, but its there...chocolate, backing/confectionery spices, and a light cheesecake note (I use that to describe a pleasant, subtle rich sourness)...citrus, cherry, caramel, and apricots

Finish: nice length, where the fruits and spices taper off slowly

Thoughts
I really like this, and I really really like this for ~$85. When I first opened the bottle, the 83 was good, but I wasn't a huge fan. Now, about halfway towards empty (around 4 months air time), it has has really opened up. While its a nice fat spirit, I do wish there was a little more oomph - that would drive it up another grade. Like I said at the beginning, while this bottle is gone, I think it's indicative of Pellehaut's overal quality.

Grade: A minus
  

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