Saturday, September 22, 2018

Vallein-Tercinier "Lot 90" and "Lot 70" for Flask, T5C, and Ryan


Ryan's Notes



Two Vallein-Tercinier selections brought to the states

Just to echo Justin, this was the clear choice for us when we tasted through the samples.  After tasting it that first time over a year ago, my memory of it became more an impression than any true recollection of what it tasted like.  Thrilled to finally be able to open a bottle and dive in.  The Lot 90, was my second favorite of the samples, but very different than the others. At the time of tasting I was completely set on the Lot 70, but now having a bottle in front of me I'm so glad that this one was picked up by Flask Fine Wine.






Lot 70, Petite Champagne, 52% (Selection for Flask, T5C, and Ryan)

Nose: Caramel, dense stewed fruits - peaches, berries. Leather bound books, walnuts, tobacco leaves. Fragrant oak. Eucalyptus.

Taste:  Lots of juicy fruits right up front. Ripe and syrupy. Blueberries, raspberries. Cream. Tastes like sweet berry pie. Also stone fruits - peaches. A heavy wave of wood polish, dried leather, linseed oil. Pleasantly drying.  There are some hints of brighter fruits. Papaya. 

Finish: Intense on the walnut oil. Black tea tannins. Spiced fruits. 

Overall: Layers upon layers.  This is, to me, an example of excellent oak influence over 45+ years.  The heavier oak flavors fill out the richer fruits on the palate, but it's still showing a freshness that is amazing for its age.  There's also a dryness and pungency, but it's pleasing and not overpowering.  I think it’s an outstanding spirit.



Lot 90, Grande Champagne, 49.7% (Selection for Flask)

Nose: Fruit forward. Apples and pears. Honey glazed. Lightly spiced. Apple cider. There's some gentle smoke there, as well.

Taste:  More orchard fruits. Apples, pears. But also some tropical fruits. Guava, papaya. Sweet and jammy. Wildflower honey. Melted spiced chocolate. Slightly malty.

Finish: More spiced fruits, mild oak tannins. Candied ginger.

Overall: It’s youthful in the best way possible. Falls just a touch short in the slight finish, but we're nitpicking. This is a delicious cognac.  

Sunday, September 16, 2018

Vallein Tercinier “Lot 70” Petite Champagne 52% for Flask, T5C, and Ryan


I’m going to preface this review with saying that I helped set up this pick and I’m inherently biased. Instead of giving it a grade, I'll just say that it’s a great cognac and I wouldn’t be upset if I bought one at retail (Flask has some available).

On to the review…

Vallein Tercinier is a grower / producer and their business goes all the back to the 1850s with George Vallein, who created and sold cognac blends. The family and company history is outlined on their website (link below) and worth a read. Today, Robert Tercinier handles the production side of cognac production and Catherine Roudier-Tercinier along with her husband, Stephane Roudier, handle the commercial side of the brand. Vallein Tercinier is located in Grande Champagne but produces cognac from other regions and I suspect they source some of the grapes from various vineyards (however they may own vineyards in different regions, too).

Unfortunately, the United States is limited when it comes to unadulterated, cask strength cognac. When I reached out to Stephane from Vallein Tercinier, I was ecstatic when he agreed to work with us. Stephane sent us several delicious samples and the Lot 70 was a clear standout (I will say the Lot 90 was pretty fantastic, too). While Vallein Tercinier uses the term “Lot,” it really refers to the vintage year (see my “Vintage” blog post), so the Lot 70 was distilled in 1970. Let that sink in…this is a 48 year cognac. Incredible. The Lot 70 is unchill-filtered, uncolored, and unadulterated. Pure, raw, 48 year old cognac...

Nose: brown sugar, apricots, and oak, oh my…some cigar box, too.

Palate: milk chocolate, tea and dried tobacco leaves wash over the palate, then I get apricots, blackberries, under-ripe raspberries, flower stems, walnut oil and some light trop fruit notes…some oak but far from over-oaked.

Finish: nice length with the fruit notes slowly tapering off last.

Thoughts
I love this – it’s a conversion cognac for spirits geeks who have always shunned or ignored brandy. I think if we saw more cognac like this in the States, its popularity would explode. The bottle has definitely evolved with a little airtime and I look forward to seeing where it takes me.           

https://www.cognac-tercinier.com/en/domaine-des-forges-en/500-years-of-history

Sunday, September 9, 2018

1979 L'encantada Domaine Les Bidets 38 years old, 48.3%

Ryan's Notes




1979 L'encantada Domaine Les Bidets 38 years old, 48.3%



Another L'encantada, another domaine.  A 1979 vintage armagnac bottled at 48.3%.  I don't know much about Les Bidets, other than that I believe we are looking at a small grower of Baco vineyards in Arthez-d'Armagnac who has their armagnac produced by a traveling distiller.  So, 100% baco here. Unfiltered and cask-strength, of course.  There has been a number of vintage casks released over recent years by L'encantada, but this does seem to be one of the older ones.


Nose: The nose immediately reveals its age. Tobacco leaves, dirt, hint of burnt wood, under all the dark oaky flavors there are some syrupy sugars and thick stewed fruits - cherries, plums. 

Taste: The first thing that hits me is a deep richness. Dark honey with a medicinal kick.  Cherry cough syrup.  Both thick and heavy on the palate.

Finish: Warm spice, ginger stands out.  Gentian and some other pleasantly astringent herbal notes.  Dry oak, a touch of varnish, just bordering on woody. The finish is long with dark sugars and dry oak.

With water: The nose reveals much of the same, but on the palate it swims well! Right away there is more sweetness. The dark honey sugars aren't overtaken as quickly and the fruit has more of a presence.  Less medicinal, not that I mind it. The cherries are still there, but now there are plums, and hints of citrus. Caramel and chocolate. Nuts. This is, in fact, quite a different experience.

At cask strength the denser oak notes remind me of some of those old rye whiskies - think Hirsch 22, BMH 23.  Of course, it's still undeniably brandy.  I imagine some will absolutely love this one at strength.  With water, we see it open up and reveal a bit more sweetness.  My preference is towards the latter, but this is the beauty of getting a spirit bottled at natural strength. Choose your own adventure.  $215 at Astor Wines.

B+



Malternative "Avant" Cognac Borderies 1925 Belgium 49%

Today’s review is of a 1925 Borderies from Malternative, an independent bottler based out of Belgium (owned by Pieter Knape) focusing on bot...